Etruscan perfume vase shaped like a female head

Up until the late 19th century, fragrance’s main goal was to replicate smells that actually occurred in nature. No “White Diamonds” or “Fresh Linen” — just lavender, citrus, and the like. The world’s first known perfume maker was a Mesopotamian woman named Etruscan, who distilled and filtered flowers, oil and calamus with other aromatics in the 2nd millennium BC. Since then, fragrances and perfumes have evolved quite a bit, incorporating many natural and not so natural ingredients. In fact, at one point ambergris was a common base of perfumes. When the use of the substance was outlawed in the 1970s due to the fact that it is made from the vomit of endangered sperm whales (yep, whale vomit), many companies began producing it synthetically. The use of the real thing was legalized again in 2005 since the retrieval of it does not actually harm the whale (strict monitoring is in place to ensure the only ambergris used is harvested from shorelines).

Like many industries, mass-production and “science” took fragrance in the wrong direction, with convenience and short cuts trumping quality and healthy ingredients. Fragrance became the sly fox of beauty products. Companies were allowed to simply write the word “fragrance” or “parfum” rather than listing the sometimes hundreds of chemicals that go into making it. Here are just a few of said ingredients: phthalates, acetone, ethanol, musks, benzaldehyde, methylene chloride and linalool. If you haven’t heard of them, then here is a list of some of the health effects they have all been linked to: headaches, dizziness, skin irritations, rashes, nausea, asthma; damage to the endocrine system, reproductive system, liver, kidneys; and lower sperm production in males. Although you are being exposed to a very small amount of these chemicals each day, they actually build up in your body over time, can accumulate in the blood and have even been detected in breast milk. And, the more products you use with fragrance as an ingredient, the more your body is ingesting.

But don’t fret, there is hope! The industry is taking steps in the right direction as well as promoting those within it who are making greener and more sustainable choices. From June 9-11, Intertech Pira, a division of Pira International, will hold the third annual Sustainable Fragrance Conference in Arlington, VA. Representatives from the EPA, the Better Business Bureau and the Consumer Specialty Products Association will participate in panels to discuss the possibilities and future of sustainable fragrance. Clorox, the American Cleaning Institute, Dr. Bronner’s, Aveda and Seventh Generation are all sending representatives with “Green Chemistry” and “Green Engineering” among the discussion topics. The EPA’s Dr. Paul Anastas (the “Father of Green Chemistry”) is set to give the keynote presentation.

The 2010 conference brought more than 100 high-level executives together to discuss the latest regulatory and technical developments. This year, the best and most successful minds in fragrance will gather to dive deep into what it means to be sustainable as well as what fragrance makers can do to ensure their products are healthy and environmentally-friendly.

While these companies do the work to become safer, you can get to work also. Start reading labels. Learn more about fragrance and other toxic chemicals through invaluable resources such as the Environmental Working Group. And, better yet, make your own mixes of fragrance. An essential oil diffuser will not only fill your room with safe floral scents, there may even be health benefits. Citrus and peppermint oils are invigorating, and when mixed with vinegar and water, you can clean your entire house with them. Mix some cinnamon oil into baking soda and you have a carpet freshener. It’s really that easy, just check out the recipes below from our friend Adina Grigore of Sprout Wellness. If you ever get tempted by a chemical-filled perfume or cleaner again, remember that the Sustainable Fragrance Conference happens because consumers vote with their wallets.

Carpet Freshener

• 1 cup baking soda
• 7-10 drops essential oil like cinnamon, clove, or lavender

Mix well till there are no clumps. Sprinkle on carpet and leave on for half an hour then vacuum.

Household Cleaner

• 1/4 cup hydrogen peroxide
• 1/2 cup white vinegar
• 1 cup water
• 12-15 drops essential oil like lemon, sweet orange, or peppermint

Mix in a spray bottle and use to clean counter tops, floors, sink or bathtub.

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IntertechPira is pleased to host the 3rd annual Sustainable Fragrances conference, scheduled for June 9-10, 2011 at the Crystal Gateway Marriott in Arlington, VA. This year’s event will bring together industry leaders from the personal care and the cleaning products industries; fragrance manufacturers and the suppliers of raw materials for the fragrance industry to delve deeper into the regulatory concerns, standards and technology updates affecting the fragrance supply chain.

Sustainable Fragrances 2011 will feature approximately 18 expert presentations assessing market trends, technical development and application related advances through presentations, question-and-answer sessions and panel discussions. Jennifer Abril, Executive Director, IFRA North America and Dr. Ladd Smith, President, Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM) will return to serve on the conference advisory committee and in the role of co-chairs.